Tuesday, August 25, 2026

A Classic Returns - The Omega Speedmaster 38mm Automatic Chronograph

While the 42mm Moonwatch is undeniably a classic, its size and manual-winding mechanism may not suit every enthusiast for daily wear—a factor that drove the creation of the Speedmaster Reduced. Launched in 1988, this 39mm automatic chronograph retained the core silhouette of the Omega Speedmaster clone family while offering greater wearability, making it a long-standing favorite among fans who appreciated the Speedmaster lineage but preferred smaller dimensions and automatic movements. The series later evolved toward a 38mm size, introducing a date display in 2010 and, in 2017, adopting oval sub-dials and a dual-bezel design. These updates lent the Speedmaster 38mm a more fashionable, refined aesthetic, though for purists familiar with the classic Moonwatch, the watch lost some of the crisp, utilitarian character of the original. Now, with the debut of the latest generation 38mm automatic chronograph, the most notable highlight is the design's return to the essence of the "classic."

The most pivotal change to the 2026 Omega Speedmaster 38mm is the removal of the somewhat controversial oval chronograph sub-dials found on the previous generation, reverting instead to a traditional circular layout. This seemingly simple adjustment has a profound impact on the watch's overall visual appeal; the circular sub-dials establish a more natural geometric harmony with the central hands and the tachymeter scale on the bezel, resulting in a more symmetrical dial—particularly in the stainless steel version with a black dial and no date display. Free from the visual clutter of a date window or excessive text, the watch’s overall aesthetic is far closer to the classic Speedmaster that enthusiasts know and love. This is precisely what makes the new model so appealing: rather than striving for novel or unconventional styling, it corrects the design trajectory of recent years. For fans who appreciate the lineage of the Speedmaster Reduced, this return to form is far more meaningful than the addition of yet another complication.

 The case retains the classic asymmetrical structure characteristic of the Speedmaster family, paired with bevelled lugs; viewed from the front, it unmistakably bears the iconic Speedmaster silhouette. Its 38mm size makes it highly versatile—avoiding the overwhelming wrist presence of some larger chronographs and making it better suited for everyday wear. Notably, this new model offers water resistance up to 100 meters—an impressive practical feature for an automatic chronograph intended for daily use—while the solid screw-in caseback is finished with an embossed Seahorse emblem, maintaining Omega's classic branding elements.

The matte black lacquered dial features white hands and hour markers, with Super-LumiNova ensuring crisp, clear legibility. A black anodized aluminum tachymeter bezel evokes a strong vintage chronograph aesthetic, complete with the "Dot Over Ninety" detail—a classic feature where the dot sits above the number 90 on the scale. While this detail might seem insignificant to the casual observer, for collectors familiar with Speedmaster history, it is often the key element that defines the watch's authentic character. Importantly, the black-dial version features a simplified dial layout—retaining only the brand logo and "Speedmaster" inscription—resulting in a much cleaner visual profile. The absence of a date window allows for a more balanced layout at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, naturally restoring the watch's tool-watch spirit.

Another easily overlooked upgrade is the bracelet; the new model adopts a five-link design inspired by the special-edition gold Speedmaster of 1969. Combining a predominantly brushed finish with polished accents, it offers a more refined look than traditional fully brushed bracelets. The five-link structure also offers distinct advantages in wearability: the links provide greater flexibility, allowing the bracelet to contour naturally to the wrist. Additionally, the folding clasp incorporates a patented comfort adjustment system, enabling a two-step micro-adjustment (2.3mm per step) without the need for tools—a highly practical feature https://www.twatchclone.ru/. 

Regarding the movement, the black-dial, no-date model is powered by the automatic Calibre 3332, while the date-display models utilize the automatic Calibre 3330. Both feature a column-wheel chronograph mechanism, a Co-Axial escapement, and a silicon balance spring, and are COSC-certified chronometers with a 52-hour power reserve. As they are not Omega’s latest-generation Master Chronometer movements, they do not represent the brand's most cutting-edge technology in terms of movement evolution; however, the focus of these new Speedmaster 38mm models was never on stacking the latest specifications, but rather on harmoniously integrating size, dial layout, vintage-inspired details, and everyday wearability.

Tuesday, August 11, 2026

Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135 Tantalum 98.1865.0135/21.C212

The Zenith G.F.J. series features a 39.15mm case crafted entirely from either precious metals (18K gold or platinum) or a special metal—specifically, tantalum (Ta). Tantalum is a rare metal characterized by a high melting point, corrosion resistance, and excellent ductility; while widely used in electronics, capacitors, high-temperature alloys, and medical devices, it is rarely seen in high-end watchmaking. Zenith was the first mainstream luxury watch brand to bring tantalum into the public eye. 

 
This limited-edition tantalum timepiece (Ref. 98.1865.0135/21.C212) showcases a black onyx dial encircled by a guilloché brick-pattern motif. The small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o'clock position is crafted from grey mother-of-pearl and complemented by white gold hands and hour markers set with 11 baguette-cut diamonds, reflecting a truly luxurious use of materials.

It is powered by a modern re-edition of the Cal.135 movement. The historical version of this movement (the Cal.135-O) won numerous chronometry awards between the 1940s and 1960s, establishing itself as one of the most decorated movements in the history of the brand—and indeed, of watchmaking. To honor its legendary status, Zenith collaborated with independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen in 2022 to restore a selection of vintage Cal.135 movements, with a modern, mass-produced version set to launch in 2025.  Best luxury Breitling Avenger clone watches online, buy replica watches at firstwatchclone.